Iceland’s Ring Road

As soon as you leave Reykjavik on the southern part of Route 1 you’ll find yourself in the magical setting of Svínahraun or the Lava of Pigs. This is the most traversed highway in Iceland but it doesn’t make it any less magical. Heading up to the moors of Hellisheiði just 20 minutes from Reykjavik you’ll catch a sniff of sulfur but don’t point fingers at your fellow passengers. This is the natural odor of the geothermal waters in these parts. Drink in the views from Hellisheiði where you can spot the Westman Islands, Eyjafjallajökull and as you pass Hveragerði (the aptly named “Steamville”) you’ll see volcano Hekla, standing proud to the north of Eyjafjallajökull. Stop at Seljalandsfoss for an obligatory Instagram shot of you behind a waterfall, drive on and stop at Skógafoss for an obligatory Instagram shot of you in front of the world’s most picturesque waterfall and try to remember where you’ve seen it before (Thor, Secret Life of Walter Mitty, Game of Thrones, etc.). Reynisfjara beach with its black sands, columnar basalt cave and crazy waves is a must as well as Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon and its companion, the Diamond Beach below. But the biggest star in this southern show has to be the vast planes of sand stretching out between huge glaciers on your left and the Atlantic Ocean on the right with dramatic mountains and cliffs in between.

Pro tip: Fill up your gas tank at Kirkjubæjarklaustur. You won’t see another gas pump for a while.

When you leave the southern part for the eastern part there’s a clear shift in the landscape. Suddenly you’re driving through narrow fjords with tall and dramatic mountains and everything just seems older. That’s because it is. The eastern fjords along with the western fjords are the oldest parts of Iceland. The landscape is different and so is the earth in these parts. There’s less, if any, geothermal activity here, earthquakes are rare and no active volcanoes. Iceland is settled here, there’s a clear sense of calm and as you pass through fishing village after fishing village with a glimpse of islands out at sea, you realize this is the land of trolls as opposed to elves. Detours up to Seyðisfjörður (a beautiful village just outside Egilsstaðir) and Hallormsstaður (a gorgeous forest next to Lake Lagarfljót) are highly recommended. This entire part of the Ring Road is both picturesque and challenging as you drive in and out of narrow fjords and long valleys.

Pro tip: Take it slow and enjoy the awesome scenery.

As you leave the long valley of Jökuldalur and head up to Möðrudalsöræfi that leads to Mývatnsöræfi you’re officially in the wild. “Öræfi” after all means “wilderness” or “the uninhabited part” and that’s exactly what this is. For a couple of hours, you’ll see very little sign of humans except for the occasional passing car. But what you will see is some of the most spectacular views in the country. The views from these parts are phenomenal and the crown jewel here is Herðubreið, the Queen of the Mountains, sitting proudly south of Mývatnsöræfi. We highly recommend a stop at some of the viewing points along this way to drink in this part of Iceland and to take pictures that will never fully capture that sense of wonder you had when you took them. Mývatn brings you back into the land of geothermal heat, complete with a bright blue lagoon and the Nature Baths. Next stop is Goðafoss, a glorious waterfall which played a huge part in the Christianization of Iceland in 1000 AD. You’ll soon arrive in Akureyri, the capital of the north and a proud home to Iceland’s sharpest pronunciations. Driving along the northern coast you’ll see gorgeous ocean views and rolling country hills and more horses than you can count. The north is home to some of Iceland’s most ambitious horse farmers, heaviest snowfall, and toughest people.

Pro tip: If the weather is good, skip the Vaðlaheiðargöng tunnel and opt for the more scenic route over Víkurskarð. Also, fill up your tank at Skjöldólfsstaðir in Jökuldalur. You’re gonna need it.